You’ve just brought a puppy home, and chances are you’re being bombarded with advice on socialization, housetraining, and other important must-know’s about puppies. Bringing home a puppy can be downright overwhelming, between trying to make sure your new best friend doesn’t leave little unwanted surprises everywhere, or chew everything in sight. In the chaos to rearrange your life and keep up with your puppy’s shenanigans, carving out the time to provide your puppy with socialization experiences might fall by the wayside.
If you’re tempted to downgrade socialization to a lower priority, than say, learning not to jump on people, don’t. Pups can learn basic obedience and many other skills when they’re older. That said, if you’re gung-ho about taking all the right steps from the start with your new puppy, you can absolutely be crafty about managing your time and your puppy’s environment and schedule. It is possible to set your puppy up for housetraining and chew-training success, work in a little obedience training, and still prioritize socialization. A wonderful resource to help you is the book, Life Skills for Puppies, by Daniel Mills and Helen Zulch.
Why is socialization so important? Pups who are under-socialized run a huge risk of developing behavior problems resulting from being fearful of things they were not adequately exposed to during their critical period for socialization. In fact, “behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age,” per the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). The risk is so great that the AVSAB released an official position statement in 2008 urging the public not to keep their puppies sequestered until they are fully vaccinated (usually at or around 16 weeks). The AVSAB strongly recommends that emphasis be placed on socialization prior to 12 weeks of age, as “the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear”. Socialization does not have to come at the cost, however, of keeping your puppy safe from serious infectious diseases such as parvovirus or distemper. There are safe, low-risk ways to provide critical socialization experiences while minimizing the risk of exposure to these diseases.
Here are some general guidelines and suggestions for socializing your puppy:
Enroll in a puppy class, preferably as soon as you get your puppy and before your pup turns 12 weeks old. Puppy class should provide positive exposure to new experiences and healthy puppy play in a structured environment, and keep you on track from week to week. Do some research to make sure the trainers you elect for puppy classes will not use aversive methods (methods that scare the pup or cause pain of any kind) as these methods can backfire and result in creating the potential for aggression later in life. Make sure the facility hosting the puppy class will disinfect the floor prior to all puppy classes or puppy socials, and that vaccines are required for all dogs and puppies who come to the facility.
Get your puppy out of the house. This doesn’t mean your back yard. Literally, take them with you as many places as possible. Ask your boss if you can bring the puppy to work 1 or 2 days per week, or at least visit a few times. Look for dog-friendly businesses, such as Onyx Tonics coffee shop and Outdoor Gear Exchange in downtown Burlington, or carry them down the main street of your town. Doing this early for large breed puppies has the side benefit that they are small enough for you to be able to carry them! Some people use a covered stroller or backpack or baby bjorn (make sure your wiggly pup is secured, though, and unlikely to escape, before counting on the equipment!). Do avoid taking your puppy to places that unvaccinated dogs go, such as the dog park, before they have completely finished their shots.
Create or use a socialization chart to remind you not to just expose your pup to people and other dogs, but to a whole slew of “life experiences” – sounds, textures, flooring and ground surfaces, umbrellas opening, automatic doors sliding open. Set up the chart so that you can check off multiple exposures to each type of experience - as socialization is not a “one and done” deal. Also, be specific about the variety you might be looking for – for example, socialization to people does not mean one average person but rather children, tall people, people with unusual gaits, people wearing hats, sunglasses or backpacks, and so on.
Have friends over frequently while your pup is young, to help your puppy be more accustomed to strangers visiting. To protect from disease, make sure visitors take their shoes off before they come in, and ask them to wash their hands before handling your puppy. Also take advantage of routine visits from the mailperson or the plumber, and give your pup treats when these events take place to help your puppy be comfortable.
Make powerful use of first-time experiences. When exposing your puppy to any new situations, think about how you can provide a low-intensity and pleasant first exposure. For example, the first time your puppy has a bath, you might consider smearing peanut butter on the side of the sink or tub, and setting up a warm soapy sponge bath with a soft washcloth for a gentle first experience.
Above all, when socializing your puppy, follow the age-old mantra, “Do No Harm”. Your puppy should be able to enjoy multiple exposures to a wide variety of experiences without being overwhelmed, traumatized or scared. Socialization won’t completely overwrite any fear that your puppy might ever experience or be genetically prone to, but it will provide lots of padding, and help your puppy develop into a well-adjusted adult dog who can handle the occasional stressful event or unexpected curveball. Plus, taking the time to do this is a bit like taking the time to enjoy life and smell the roses – except in this case, it’s puppy breath.
A version of this ‘blog was published in the quarterly magazine 4 Legs & a Tail, Northern VT & New Hampshire edition, Feb 27, 2018.